The trading of imported secondhand clothing is perceived as a serious threat to the sustainability of the domestic textile industry, particularly for micro, small and medium enterprises. This is not just a mere exaggeration. The Central Statistics Agency reported that in 2022, Indonesia's imports of secondhand clothing reached 26.22 tons, equivalent to 272,146 US dollars. It marked a significant increase of 230.40% compared to the imports in 2021, which were around 7.94 tons valued at 44,136 US dollars. This increase is suspected to have eroded the market share of domestic textile producers by up to 15 percent.
What is even worse is that the secondhand clothing entering Indonesia is often done through illegal means as it is commonly practiced without paying the required duties and taxes. As a result, the thrifting business in this context not only harms entrepreneurs in the micro, small, and medium-sized business sector but also the country's economy on a larger scale. The influx of prohibited secondhand clothing piles clearly demonstrates that smuggling practices are occurring. This implies the existence of individuals who are acting as thorns the side. These individuals are highly likely to have been facilitating the entry, allowing the import of secondhand clothing to continue unabated. The motives behind their actions are easily deduced: lucrative gains! With the soaring demand for secondhand clothing, those involved in facilitating these imports are clearly benefiting, if not engaging in corrupt practices or bribery.
The effects of secondhand clothing imports and businesses on human health and the environment should not be underestimated. Data revealed by Alan Wheeler, the Director of the Textile Recycling Association in the UK, indicates that the clothing industry contributes to the second-largest pollution source globally. He states that approximately 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gas emissions are generated by the global textile industry.
Within the Indonesian context, distinct data emanating from Zero Waste Indonesia in 2018 underscore that textile waste's deleterious infiltration into the oceans surpasses that of plastic waste. The pervasive inclination towards acquiring thrifted garments at reduced costs unequivocally serves as a pivotal catalyst. A comprehensive analysis of research data culled from YouGov underscores that an estimated 66% of Indonesia's adult populace discards a minimum of one article of clothing annually, while roughly 25% dispose of upwards of 10 pieces within the same timeframe. The underlying causality is conspicuous; thrifted clothes, marked by their budget-friendliness, are often emblematic of established brands and conveniently accessible. Furthermore, the proclivity of youth to gravitate towards swiftly evolving fashion trends compounds the predicament. Consequently, the environment remains ensnared in a ceaseless cycle of accommodating the mounting heaps of discarded secondhand attire.
The issue is that, so far, clothing recycling has not proven to be a definitive solution. Consequently, most of these garments continue to accumulate or are incinerated. These actions contribute to poor air quality, endangering living beings. Not only that, but environmental safety aspects are often overlooked in the production stage. Allegedly, the dyes commonly used in clothing are hazardous textile dyes. Furthermore, the raw materials extensively used in fast fashion garments are known to be polyester derived from fossil fuels. Clothing made from this material releases microplastic fibers when washed, which, once again, poses risks to both humans and the environment.
Humanitarian and Effective Solutions
Overcoming the issue of secondhand clothing businesses with their destructive impact on the environment and micro, small, and medium-sized enterprises is by no means a straightforward task. Government restrictions on stopping the import of used clothing are undoubtedly well-intentioned. However, if the focus is solely on closing the import channel, the problem remains unresolved. In fact, it may lead to other equally serious issues. Many secondhand clothing traders, for example, could lose their livelihoods, potentially contributing to higher unemployment rates. This phenomenon could extend to other social issues, given that high unemployment rates often correlate with an increase in crime cases.
Firstly, the government must serve as a bridge among secondhand clothing entrepreneurs, domestic textile businesses, and Indonesian textile factory operators. A marketplace needs to be designed that involves all three parties harmoniously and benefits each other. Secondhand clothing business owners need to be cooperative and willing to follow government instructions to shift their business from selling clothing made from local textiles. On the other hand, the government needs to provide assurance that this transition will not result in financial losses and will be reliable in long-term prospects.
Secondly, domestic textile industry players are urged and challenged to consistently produce raw clothing materials that are not only of high quality but also affordable, while also staying adaptable to the ever-changing and evolving fashion trends over time.
Thirdly, textile-processing factories that turn textiles into finished garments must be subjected to strict regulations and oversight to ensure that their products are environmentally friendly and support the principles of sustainable living. At this point, the government needs to collaborate closely with companies that have proven competence in realizing these aspirations. One such company is the Royal Golden Eagle (RGE). With its 5Cs philosophy of doing what is good for the Community, Country, Climate and Customer, and only then will it be good for the Company, RGE can be involved in providing training and mentoring. This way, the textile and garment industry in Indonesia can be competent from selecting raw materials to the process of turning textiles into finished garments.
Fourthly, the government, in collaboration with companies like RGE, can provide massive and ongoing education to the general public about the importance of sustainable fashion. The stigma that "only branded and foreign-made used goods matter" must be eradicated. The public needs to be made aware that the practice of purchasing used clothing that often follows trendy patterns and subsequently disposing of these clothes when they are deemed outdated is highly detrimental to both public health and the environment. Furthermore, a sense of patriotism towards domestic products must also be nurtured by prioritizing the national garment industry when individuals intend to shop for clothes.
