Indonesia is reported to have become a destination for 'disposing' used clothes from other countries. This has been particularly caused by the trend of importing secondhand clothing to be resold. Hence, it is no wonder that in major cities across Indonesia, secondhand clothing stores thrive vigorously, much like mushrooms during rainy season.
The fast fashion trend is indeed at its peak of sweetness. Bandung has its Cimol Gedebage Market, Jakarts boasts its Pasar Senen and Medan features Pajak Melati, Pajak Simalingkar and Pajak Sambu---to name only a few---as the mascots of thrifting hubs. I am confident that in major cities across this nation, similar places can also be found quite abundantly.
A Highly Promising Business OpportunityÂ
The thrifting business is really tempting. For sellers with minimum capital, substantial profits can be gained. Therefore, it is no surprise that many thrifting entrepreneurs, who initially started their small-scale enterprise, experience rapid growth in their businesses within a relatively short period. Their revenue increases and the customer base expands. They are diversifying their sales efforts by operating in both brick-and-mortar and digital spheres.
Selling, especially in the present era with the proliferation of online fashion shopping websites, has become more accessible. Social media also contributes to this trend. Many thrifting entrepreneurs market their products through live broadcasts on platforms like Facebook, Instagram or TikTok. Â Buyers also benefit from this trend. They can acquire branded clothing at affordable prices, with relatively good quality even though the items are secondhand.
When you visit one of these secondhand clothing stores, you will find that most of these thrifting traders have been in this business for many years. It is through this business that they sustain themselves, build homes, and educate their children up to university level.
Consider Melin Maria Tampubolon, who, by way of illustration, has been deeply engaged in the enterprise of trading pre-owned garments for a span of three years. Preceding her marital union, during her pursuit of higher education she concurrently provided assistance to her mother's brick-and-mortar vending endeavors within the vicinity of the traditional marketplace near their domicile in the Simalingkar district of Medan. However, with the advent of the global Covid-19 pandemic, their commercial undertakings necessitated cessation. Presently, subsequent to her nuptials and while concurrently discharging her duties as an educator, she has resurrected her thrift commerce, albeit in the digital sphere.
"My husband and I do indeed work as educators. However, we are both employed in the private sector, where our earnings are not particularly substantial. Moreover, considering that we now have two children, naturally, our expenses are more extensive. Therefore, the venture of selling secondhand clothing genuinely proves to be immensely beneficial," she articulated.
Emerging Potential Threats
While proven to significantly boost the community's economy, the trend of secondhand clothing trading holds the potential to pose substantial detrimental threats. Notably, at least two sectors bear the brunt of its adverse effects: the domestic textile industry and environmental well-being.
Due to these very real threats, the government eventually took the official step of prohibiting the thrifting business, as outlined in the Minister of Trade Regulation (Permendag) No. 40 of 2022 concerning Amendments to Minister of Trade Regulation No. 18 of 2021 regarding Prohibited Export and Import Goods.
The trading of imported secondhand clothing is perceived as a serious threat to the sustainability of the domestic textile industry, particularly for micro, small and medium enterprises. This is not just a mere exaggeration. The Central Statistics Agency reported that in 2022, Indonesia's imports of secondhand clothing reached 26.22 tons, equivalent to 272,146 US dollars. It marked a significant increase of 230.40% compared to the imports in 2021, which were around 7.94 tons valued at 44,136 US dollars. This increase is suspected to have eroded the market share of domestic textile producers by up to 15 percent.
What is even worse is that the secondhand clothing entering Indonesia is often done through illegal means as it is commonly practiced without paying the required duties and taxes. As a result, the thrifting business in this context not only harms entrepreneurs in the micro, small, and medium-sized business sector but also the country's economy on a larger scale. The influx of prohibited secondhand clothing piles clearly demonstrates that smuggling practices are occurring. This implies the existence of individuals who are acting as thorns the side. These individuals are highly likely to have been facilitating the entry, allowing the import of secondhand clothing to continue unabated. The motives behind their actions are easily deduced: lucrative gains! With the soaring demand for secondhand clothing, those involved in facilitating these imports are clearly benefiting, if not engaging in corrupt practices or bribery.
The effects of secondhand clothing imports and businesses on human health and the environment should not be underestimated. Data revealed by Alan Wheeler, the Director of the Textile Recycling Association in the UK, indicates that the clothing industry contributes to the second-largest pollution source globally. He states that approximately 1.2 billion tons of greenhouse gas emissions are generated by the global textile industry.
Within the Indonesian context, distinct data emanating from Zero Waste Indonesia in 2018 underscore that textile waste's deleterious infiltration into the oceans surpasses that of plastic waste. The pervasive inclination towards acquiring thrifted garments at reduced costs unequivocally serves as a pivotal catalyst. A comprehensive analysis of research data culled from YouGov underscores that an estimated 66% of Indonesia's adult populace discards a minimum of one article of clothing annually, while roughly 25% dispose of upwards of 10 pieces within the same timeframe. The underlying causality is conspicuous; thrifted clothes, marked by their budget-friendliness, are often emblematic of established brands and conveniently accessible. Furthermore, the proclivity of youth to gravitate towards swiftly evolving fashion trends compounds the predicament. Consequently, the environment remains ensnared in a ceaseless cycle of accommodating the mounting heaps of discarded secondhand attire.
The issue is that, so far, clothing recycling has not proven to be a definitive solution. Consequently, most of these garments continue to accumulate or are incinerated. These actions contribute to poor air quality, endangering living beings. Not only that, but environmental safety aspects are often overlooked in the production stage. Allegedly, the dyes commonly used in clothing are hazardous textile dyes. Furthermore, the raw materials extensively used in fast fashion garments are known to be polyester derived from fossil fuels. Clothing made from this material releases microplastic fibers when washed, which, once again, poses risks to both humans and the environment.
Humanitarian and Effective Solutions
Overcoming the issue of secondhand clothing businesses with their destructive impact on the environment and micro, small, and medium-sized enterprises is by no means a straightforward task. Government restrictions on stopping the import of used clothing are undoubtedly well-intentioned. However, if the focus is solely on closing the import channel, the problem remains unresolved. In fact, it may lead to other equally serious issues. Many secondhand clothing traders, for example, could lose their livelihoods, potentially contributing to higher unemployment rates. This phenomenon could extend to other social issues, given that high unemployment rates often correlate with an increase in crime cases.
Firstly, the government must serve as a bridge among secondhand clothing entrepreneurs, domestic textile businesses, and Indonesian textile factory operators. A marketplace needs to be designed that involves all three parties harmoniously and benefits each other. Secondhand clothing business owners need to be cooperative and willing to follow government instructions to shift their business from selling clothing made from local textiles. On the other hand, the government needs to provide assurance that this transition will not result in financial losses and will be reliable in long-term prospects.
Secondly, domestic textile industry players are urged and challenged to consistently produce raw clothing materials that are not only of high quality but also affordable, while also staying adaptable to the ever-changing and evolving fashion trends over time.
Thirdly, textile-processing factories that turn textiles into finished garments must be subjected to strict regulations and oversight to ensure that their products are environmentally friendly and support the principles of sustainable living. At this point, the government needs to collaborate closely with companies that have proven competence in realizing these aspirations. One such company is the Royal Golden Eagle (RGE). With its 5Cs philosophy of doing what is good for the Community, Country, Climate and Customer, and only then will it be good for the Company, RGE can be involved in providing training and mentoring. This way, the textile and garment industry in Indonesia can be competent from selecting raw materials to the process of turning textiles into finished garments.
Fourthly, the government, in collaboration with companies like RGE, can provide massive and ongoing education to the general public about the importance of sustainable fashion. The stigma that "only branded and foreign-made used goods matter" must be eradicated. The public needs to be made aware that the practice of purchasing used clothing that often follows trendy patterns and subsequently disposing of these clothes when they are deemed outdated is highly detrimental to both public health and the environment. Furthermore, a sense of patriotism towards domestic products must also be nurtured by prioritizing the national garment industry when individuals intend to shop for clothes.
Without effective cooperation among these parties, the fast fashion trend will become a silent killer for the nation in the future.
