Stare Miasto w Toruniu (Poland Trip Part 2)

The next city we visited was Toruń.

The trip from Warsaw to Toruń took 3 hours by train, which was run by the PKP (Polskie Koleje Państwowe) Intercity; the national rail operator there. Once we arrived at the station or główny in the local tongue, we went straight outside and became at a loss as to how we were going to hail a taxi. 

Poles on average don’t seem to be proficient in English, which complicates things. Then a kind local took notice and helped us, making sure to give the directions correctly to the taxi driver. 

Beautiful Torun Station (dokpri)

Our destination was the Kopernik Hotel located in Toruń’s “Old Town” area, where some of the buildings survived the ordeal that was World War 2. We arrived at the hotel safely and checked-in for the night. 

Hotel surroundings (dokpri)

The next day, once we had our breakfast, we visited the Nicolaus Copernicus University or Uniwersytet Mikołaja Kopernika (UMK) by tram. Tickets for said tram could be bought at nearby kiosks, with one ticket costing about 2.50 złoty, with the option of buying in bulk. We bought a package of 8 tickets for 20 złoty, 4 for myself and 4 for my mother. 

Tram to university (dokpri)

At UMK itself, we spent time visiting libraries, meeting rooms, dormitories, parks, and classrooms; some of which were named after professors who have served there. We also visited the UMK gift shop and bought souvenirs there, mainly ones bearing the UMK logo.

Nicolaus Copernicus University (dokpri)

We met up with Milena---head of the UMK international office---for lunch at the university canteen. The place was well kept, with people picking up after themselves and their trash. 

There were also private VIP rooms in the canteen, probably for discrete events. Before heading back to town, we made a detour to pray at the lodgings of Indonesian students that studied at UMK, with their permission of course.

UMK Merchandise (dokpri)

After visiting UMK, Dr. Malgorzata, lecturer at UMK accompany us to visit The Old Town. The tram took us from UMK to the Plac Św. Katarzyny (St. Catherine Square) at Old Town Area. To make sure we had access to the internet during our stay in Poland, we bought a local sim card with the Play brand from a local store. 

Once that was done, we ate kebab together for dinner, since it was the only halal food we could find in the area. We also bought fruits  for snacks, which can be bought from Żabka Polska, a convenience store chain much like 7-Eleven in the US or Indomaret/Alfamart in Indonesia, before heading back to our hotel.

Torun Old Town (dokpri)

Toruń is also famous for its gingerbread and they have a whole museum dedicated to it where one can learn how to bake the treat on their own i.e. Muzeum Toruńskiego Piernika. Another Polish signature snack is the delicious E.Wedel line of chocolates. In fact, Jan Wedel, the last member of the Wedel family to own the company, was considered "the Willy Wonka" of pre-war Poland. 

Unfortunately, his factory was destroyed by the Nazis and then confiscated by the Soviets. The Wedels themselves never lived to see the war end. But their company persevered, and their line of sweet confectioneries are now a familiar sight in Polish stores. We ourselves had a chance to taste a delicious hot chocolate drink from E. Wedel cafe.

Chili flavor cocholate (dokpri)

The day after our visit to UMK, me and my mother started our full day tour of historical Toruń. The “Old Town” was within walking distance from our hotel. We can even see a bit of it from our hotel window. 

Some notable landmarks of the city is the statue of Nicolaus Copernicus in front of City Hall,  the Krzywa Wieża w Toruniu (Leaning Tower of Toruń) and Dom Mikołaja Kopernika (House of Nicolaus Copernicus). The house I mentioned just now was claimed by many historians to be the birthplace of the great Polish astronomer, in 1473. 

House of Nicolaus Copernicus (dokpri)

The tower on the other hand, had more esoteric legends associated with it, two of which are:

1. The sin of the Teutonic Knight: Long ago, there lived 12 knights of the Order of Teutonic Knights, who were forbidden to meet with women. One of these monks, however, fell in love with the daughter of a rich merchant, thus breaking the monastic rule of the Order. The town’s residents discovered this and reported it to the Teutonic Knights’ Commander as well as the city’s authorities. The two lovers were fined, with the woman sentenced to twenty-five lashes, and the offending knight ordered to make a tower. This tower had to be tilted however, in the same way as his conduct had deviated from the monastic rule. The legend goes that to the present day, those who have sinned are not able to keep their balance under the tower.

1. Origin of the name of the city: Long ago, the tower was a friend of the river Wisła nearby, and loved to listen to the interesting stories told by the river. With time, the river came closer and closer to the tower, eroding its walls and causing the tower to start leaning. The tower pleaded with the river to retreat, as it might fall down, but the river said (in Polish), “So fall down, then!”. The river’s cries were heard by wanderers who wondered what was the town with high walls they could see on the horizon, and so they called the town “Toruń”, which meant “So fall down, then!”, in that era’s version of Polish.

Leaning Tower (dokpri)

Toruń is one of the oldest cities in Poland, with the first settlement dating back to the 8th century and later on expanded in 1233 by the Teutonic Knights. It’s widely believed by many to be one of the most beautiful cities in Europe, and I can see where they’re coming from. 

One of the most beautiful cities in Europe (dokpri)

I took a walk down to the riverside in the early hours of the morning, and the fog was still thick then, hovering over the Vistula River like a stage curtain. It was magical; it made me feel like all that existed was on my side of the river. I saw some ducks too. They quacked and drifted away into the fog, to whatever lay beyond. 

I think about them often.

Filus, cute dog statue (dokpri)

Another impressionable event to me was the visit to the town’s planetarium. Astronomy and Toruń seems inseparable, especially with its close ties to one of the great astronomers of old, Nicolaus Copernicus. 

While I understood none of the audio and the graphics seemed like a relic of early 2000’s animation, it was still quite impressive how much it managed to convey the importance of the stars, especially that of our own Sun. I take it for granted at where I live that day and night would be of equal length, that it was how things should be. 

But for others, summer brings days stretched ‘till midnight, and winter brings nights encroaching upon noon. Did they think the way I did, that this was how things worked everywhere? Did they ever wonder if it could be any different?

Planetarium (dokpri)

Ah, but I digress. Such things can be talked about later, at length in a more appropriate article. Toruń is the keyword for now, and I should get back to it. The last night before leaving Toruń, we had a chance to go to the other side of the Vistula River, wherein a magnificent view unveiled itself. 

My gaze fell first on the bridge we crossed, and then over to the Old City, and then the remains of the Teutonic Knights’ castle. It was one of those rare sights that really do look like they do in postcards and the like, if even better I could see it for myself. I almost felt reluctant to leave, but then I remembered that even when I come back, Toruń will come with me as well; as a memory that’ll never be forgotten.

Spectacular view of Torun at night (dokpri)

(to be continued)