Royally Grounded: Tales of Sandringham, Balmoral, and Budget-Friendly Majesty

My friend, a delightful English gentleman who has lived in Indonesia for several years, and I found ourselves wandering the Norfolk Coast National Landscape in the winter of 2018. We were there to revel in the endless beaches and dramatic skies, a far cry from the tropical beauty of Southeast Asia. While plotting our next move, my friend, ever the one with grand ideas, suggested we make a stop at Sandringham Estate to see about a place to stay for the next three days.

According to him, Sandringham Estate boasts four luxurious cottages owned by the British royal family, but only a few were available for holiday rentals. "Not that we'd stay in one of those," he said with a smirk as we parked the car. "They're ridiculously expensive, even by royal standards."

There are four luxurious cottages owned by the British royal family surrounding Sandringham. | Sandringham Estate.

Soon, we were seated at the Sandringham Restaurant, located at the estate's entrance gate, enjoying a hearty lunch made from the estate's own produce. Over plates of venison pie and seasonal vegetables, I asked him to enlighten me about Sandringham's history.

"Ah, Sandringham," he began, settling into his storyteller mode. "The estate was originally built in the late 18th century by Charles Spencer Cowper, the stepson of Prime Minister Lord Palmerston. But it wasn't until 1862 that it truly became royal. Queen Victoria purchased it as a country retreat for her son, Edward, the Prince of Wales, who later became Edward VII."

"Was it always this vast?" I asked, glancing out the window at the sprawling grounds.

"Oh, not at all," he replied. "When Edward first arrived, the estate was quite modest. He found it inadequate for royal use, so he did what any prince with resources would do: he tore down the old house and built a grander one. Over the years, more land was acquired, transforming Sandringham into the sprawling 8,100 hectares it is today."

Compared to Blitar in East Java, Sandringham Estate is more than double its size. | Sandringham Estate.

I raised an eyebrow. "8,100 hectares? That's enormous. How does that compare to, say, small towns in Indonesia?"

He chuckled. "Let's see. Take Blitar in East Java. That's around 3,200 hectares. Sandringham is more than double its size. Or Banjar in West Java---just over 1,100 hectares. Sandringham would swallow it seven times over."

"Good Lord," I muttered, imagining the endless woodlands and fields.

He continued, "What makes Sandringham unique is that it's privately owned by the royal family. Unlike Buckingham Palace or Windsor Castle, it's financed and maintained from their own pockets."

"Why is that?" I asked.

"Because it's personal property, bought by Queen Victoria. And it's run as a working estate, meaning it generates income through farming, forestry, property rentals, and tourism. Visitors like us help keep the lights on, so to speak."

The Pantry, located near the entrance gate, features produce from the Estate. | Sandringham Estate.

"Speaking of Windsor," I said, "I've been there, but never to Balmoral. How do they compare?"

"Ah, now there's a tale," he said, his eyes lighting up. "Windsor Castle is owned by the Crown, not the family. It's an official residence, used for state banquets and ceremonies, and sits on just 5,25 hectares. Balmoral, on the other hand, is another private estate, much like Sandringham but far bigger---20,200 hectares."

I almost choked on my tea. "Twenty thousand hectares? That's absurd."

"It is," he agreed, "but think of it this way: Bukittinggi in West Sumatra is around 2,500 hectares. Balmoral could fit eight Bukittinggis inside it. It's a working estate, too, with farming, timber, and even holiday rentals. But it's mainly a summer retreat for the royals."

"And the other royal estates?" I asked.

Sandringham Sawmill produces around 175 timber products for retail direct to the public. These include sawn timber and firewood. | Sandringham Estate.

He leaned back, gesturing expansively. "Most of the famous ones---Buckingham Palace, Windsor Castle, Clarence House, Kensington Palace, and even Highgrove House---are owned by the Crown. They're used for official duties, and the monarch can't sell them. It's a peculiar setup, really. They're not private property like Sandringham or Balmoral."

By this point, our plates were empty, and the afternoon light was growing golden. We decided it was time to settle on accommodation. Predictably, the luxurious royal cottages were out of reach, so we opted for a more modest yet charming choice: The Sandringham Estate Club Campsite.

"Perfect," my friend declared. "It's right in the heart of the estate, just a 15-minute walk to Sandringham House. And it'll give us access to Hunstanton, too."

The Norfolk Coast National Landscape stretches from Sandringham Estate in the West to Winterton-On-Sea in the East. | Sandringham Estate.

I nodded, imagining the candy-striped cliffs and sandy beaches he described. The campsite promised lush walking trails, an adventure playground, and even a visitors' centre with a tea room and a Royal Garden flower stall. It seemed like the perfect compromise for our royal adventure.

As we left the restaurant, the winter air crisp and bracing, I couldn't help but feel a little regal myself, wandering the grounds of one of Britain's most iconic estates, albeit on a far humbler budget than its owners.