After binge-watching The Crown on Netflix, I found myself utterly fascinated with Princess Margaret's life. Oh, how fabulous it must have been to flit back and forth between London and Barbados---a life of scandalous escapades, whispered romances, and endless champagne. While we peasants were grappling with overcrowded buses, she was escaping the dreary London fog to her private Caribbean paradise.
Barbados: The Gateway to Royal Escapes
Princess Margaret wasn't simply jetting to Barbados to sip pina coladas under a palm tree---though I'm sure plenty of that happened too. For her, Barbados was the gateway to Mustique, the tiny, private island where she could let her hair down, far away from cameras and judgmental headlines. She visited mostly in winter, escaping the chill and embracing the exclusivity of a place where royalty, celebrities, and billionaires mingled. Mustique became her secret playground, a sanctuary from the pressures of royal life, her marriage troubles, and the ever-nosy British press.
The Mystery of Mustique
Naturally, I had to know more about this elusive island, so I started digging. To my surprise, Mustique isn't exactly a destination you'll stumble upon while browsing Traveloka or Tripadvisor. No quirky reviews like, "5 stars for the quiet beach, minus 2 stars because Brad Pitt blocked my sunset view." Even Booking.com skips it, though Agoda gave a little whisper about accommodations there. Why? Because Mustique isn't your run-of-the-mill tourist trap---it's a private island, dripping in exclusivity.
To visit Mustique, you either rent one of its absurdly luxurious villas, book into its singular boutique hotel, or get invited by someone fabulously wealthy. Property owners include A-list celebrities like Mick Jagger and, once upon a time, David Bowie. Fun fact: Bowie owned a stunning Indonesian-inspired villa there. Yes, even rock gods appreciate Balinese tranquillity while sipping Caribbean rum.
Princess Margaret's Les Jolies Eaux
But the crown jewel of Mustique? That would be Les Jolies Eaux, Princess Margaret's villa. She didn't just stumble onto this dreamlike retreat---she was gifted the plot of land in 1960 by Colin Tennant, the flamboyant 3rd Baron Glenconner. Tennant had bought the entire island in 1958 for a laughable 45,000 pounds and was developing it into a playground for the elite. As a wedding gift to Margaret, he handed her a piece of paradise.
The villa, completed in the late 1960s, was designed by the renowned Oliver Messel, a theatrical set designer turned architect. Messel infused Les Jolies Eaux with his signature mix of elegance and romance. Picture dreamy verandas, sweeping terraces, and views that seem straight out of a fairytale. The villa itself sprawled over 4,05 hectares, offering the Princess unparalleled privacy and jaw-dropping vistas of the Caribbean Sea.
Of course, the Tennants were central to Margaret's time on the island. Colin Tennant was a larger-than-life figure who knew how to throw a party---and his wife, Anne Tennant, was one of Margaret's closest confidantes. Together, they made Mustique the perfect blend of escapism and indulgence.
Why Les Jolies Eaux Became Available to Plebs (Sort Of)
Margaret bequeathed the villa to her children, David Linley and Lady Sarah Chatto. By then, maintaining such a property was no longer practical, and they sold it before Margaret died in 2002. Today, Les Jolies Eaux is available for rent---if your wallet can handle it.
The Cost of Living Like Royalty
If you want to stay at Les Jolies Eaux, prepare to cough up anywhere from $25,000 to $50,000 per week. Yes, per week. But what do you get for such an outrageous sum?
- The entire villa (no sharing with strangers, darling)
- A private pool overlooking the Caribbean
- A full villa staff, including a chef, housekeeper, and butler ready to cater to your every whim
- Gorgeous terraces, lush gardens, and panoramic sea views
- Access to Mustique's exclusive amenities---tennis courts, beaches, and glamorous social events
Worth it? Well, for a Princess, absolutely. For the rest of us... maybe not.
Plotting My Way to Mustique from Jakarta
At this point, my curiosity turned to logistics. How could I, a mere mortal, get to Mustique from Jakarta? Spoiler: it's not easy.
Step 1: Jakarta to London
There are no direct flights between Jakarta (CGK) and London. The journey requires a layover, usually in cities like Singapore, Dubai, or Doha. Airlines like Singapore Airlines, Emirates, and Qatar Airways make this possible. Total travel time? Around 17 to 20 hours depending on connections. Exhausting.
Step 2: London to Barbados
From London, you can take a direct flight to Barbados' Grantley Adams International Airport (BGI). Airlines like British Airways and Virgin Atlantic offer non-stop routes, taking roughly 8 to 9 hours.
Step 3: Barbados to Mustique
Once you reach Barbados, it's another 45-minute flight on a small charter plane (think SVG Air or Mustique Airways) to Mustique. By this point, I'd need a week just to recover from the journey---and I haven't even unpacked yet.
Do Indonesians Need Visas?
Here's a bit of good news: Indonesians do not need a visa to visit Barbados for up to 90 days. However, you'll need:
- A valid passport
- Proof of onward travel (return tickets)
- Evidence of accommodation
- Sufficient funds to cover your stay
Reality Check: Is Mustique Worth It?
After factoring in flights, villa costs, and the time spent traveling, I did the math and abandoned my dream of sipping cocktails at Les Jolies Eaux.
But fear not! For those craving a taste of Mustique without taking out a second mortgage, there's The Cotton House Hotel. It's the island's only boutique hotel, offering luxurious rooms, fine dining, and beach access for a (somewhat) more reasonable price. You won't get the royal villa experience, but you'll still enjoy the exclusivity and charm of Mustique.
And for flights? Choosing premium economy or booking with airlines like Turkish Airlines or Qatar Airways during a sale might shave off some costs.
Final Thoughts
Princess Margaret may have lived a life of privilege and indulgence, but let's face it---she earned it. Between her royal obligations, personal struggles, and that ever-present press scrutiny, Mustique was her escape, her sanctuary.
For the rest of us, though? We might just have to settle for a good Netflix binge, a fruity drink in hand, and a cheeky daydream of a life less ordinary---with far fewer zeros on the bill.
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